Waves Book
Introduction
Developer guide
A. Wave Analysis
A.1 Observations
Majuro Atoll (Republic of the Marshall Islands)
Bilbao Exterior Buoy
Terschelling (Netherlands)
A.2 Spectral Analysis
Pierson and Moskowitz (1964), OTD
Jonswap Spectra
Directional Spectra
Water level from Spectra
Free Surface from Directional Spectra
A.3 Short-term statistics
A.4 Wave Generation
Nomogram Shore Protection Manual - SPM
B. Wave transformation
B.1 Water Wave Mechanics
Potential equation
Stationary waves
B.2 Monochromatic Wave Transformation
Ecuación de la Difracción Oblicua
Coeficientes de difracción, refracción y asomeramiento
B.3 Random Wave Transformation
C. Long Waves
C.1 Surf Zone Hydrodynamics
C.2 Long Waves
C.3 Total Water Level
D. Forecast and Hindcast
D.1 Atmospheric Forcings
D.2 Forecast
D.3 Hindcast
D.4 Tropical Cyclones
repository
Index
