Waves Book

Introduction

Developer guide

A. Wave Analysis

A.1 Observations
A.2 Spectral Analysis
A.3 Short-term statistics
A.4 Wave Generation
- Nomogram Shore Protection Manual - SPM

B. Wave transformation

B.1 Water Wave Mechanics
- Potential equation
- Stationary waves
B.2 Monochromatic Wave Transformation
- Ecuación de la Difracción Oblicua
- Coeficientes de difracción, refracción y asomeramiento
B.3 Random Wave Transformation

C. Long Waves

C.1 Surf Zone Hydrodynamics
C.2 Long Waves
C.3 Total Water Level

D. Forecast and Hindcast

D.1 Atmospheric Forcings
D.2 Forecast
D.3 Hindcast
D.4 Tropical Cyclones

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A.2 Spectral Analysis¶

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Pierson and Moskowitz (1964), OTD

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